Papua New Guinea

You are currently browsing the archive for the Papua New Guinea category.

I am coming up on my first full week in Port Moresby — the weather is (relatively) cold and (relatively) wet. I’m staying with a host family in Port Moresby who are welcoming, accommodating, and fun to be around. (I’ve been typing the word ‘accommodate’ repeatedly the last couple of days for some reason and it drives me nuts — two Cs and two Ms: Why?!?) The neighborhood where I’m staying is a perfect example of Papua New Guinea’s slow but steady growth towards stability and safety. It used to have quite a reputation (it still does to many. When I tell some of the executives that I study that I am living there they are gobsmacked.) but my little corner of it has quite a community feel — the tradestore at the corner is run by a woman from near Porgera, where I used to live, and last night I sat on the corner chewing buai and watching the local kids play footie in the street. Sorry — footie is ‘rugby’, I’ve reverted back to PNG/Oz English now that I am here. PNG seems to be righting itself — the totally random and supremely horrific violence (and sexual violence) that once scandalized the country in the late-90s seems to be a thing of the past, or at least much more rare. The managing director of one firm told me he saw white women jogging in the late afternoon as the sun went down — something unimaginable when I first arrived in 1998.

Having given social democracy and third-wayism a run for the first couple of decades of independence, PNG seems increasingly to be going in the other direction: privatization, business, and commerce are all the rage here. Mobile phone companies transform people’s lives. The 7,000 workers the upcoming LNG project is supposed to bring to the country is on everyone’s lips. Real estate prices are skyrocketing as freehold land becomes increasingly scarce. Cars clog the road and Moresby now has rush hours — a glut of white Toyota four doors running through the two blocks of Champion Parade Ground that constitute downtown Port Moresby. Neoliberalism is bringing benefits to people — at least in the short run. I’m concerned about the potential long-term effects of the near-abandonment of any confidence or hope in the government and civil service, but for now the obvious improvements to PNG are hard to ignore even if lefties like me worry about what may come later.

Bandwidth is unbelievably dear in Papua New Guinea. Moving packets over the Internet costs money, wireless is scarce and expensive, and cellphones need to be topped up constantly. After years of living in rural Papua New Guinea I can tell I am going to have to take a good hard look at how best to avoid hemorrhaging money turning kina into bits. Transport is also an issue — I am notoriously reluctant to drive in the states, and here in PNG with the backwards roads, reversed car controls, crazy traffic pattern, and the still-lurking issue of random events getting out of control, I just don’t feel comfortable trying to drive around myself. Luckily I have a wantok who drives a cab and my host family commute into work in a way that I can hop on to, but the fact remains that I have chosen a fieldwork topic that requires constant telephoning, emailing, and driving around when email, telephone, and driving are some of the biggest obstacles to me. Oh for an office with Internet and photocopying and a landline.

So all is good over here and I’ll try to post more as I have more to post and I figure out how best to access the Intarweb.

The National is running a piece called “Let Cops Stay Longer”:http://www.thenational.com.pg/050809/nation4.php, which quotes Pakiru Pundi as urging the government to extend the state of emergency in Porgera and that the house burnings reported last week were not serious. His concern appears to be that illegal miners and non-ethnic Porgerans are colonizing the valley.

Some of the National’s reporting seems a bit off — Pakiru is described as “paramount chief” of the Tieni (there are no ‘paramount chiefs’ in Porgera) and Yarik, his home area, is listed as an ‘illegal settlement’. But there is absolutely no doubt of the fundamental legitimacy of Pakiru Pundi as a Porgera landowner and his deep involvement with Porgera over decades adn decades of time. The overall the drift of the article is clear — the story of mine, government and army arrayed against and oppressing ‘indigenous’ Porgerans hides a more complex, and probably more accurate account of a variety of forces, including multiple landowner groups, trying to deal with the growth of population in the valley as a result of, among other things, Engan colonization.

Good lord: “Barrick-recommended military force burns down hundreds of homes in PNG”:http://www.indybay.org/newsitems/2009/04/30/18592070.php

And this from the Post Courier: “Porgera locals to sue government”:http://www.postcourier.com.pg/20090501/news01.htm

Update 1 May 09 17:30:
Here’s a roundup of some more links. Some of these pages are being edited while live so sometimes the content changes.

Radio New Zealand: “PNG Denies Paper Report About Porgera Fires”:http://www.rnzi.com/pages/news.php?op=read&id=46298

ABC: “PNG Villagers Allege Police Destroyed Homes”:http://www.radioaustralianews.net.au/stories/200904/2557368.htm?desktop

Dominion: “Indigenous Community Leaders Confront Barrick Gold In Toronto”:http://www.dominionpaper.ca/weblogs/%5Buser%5D/2632 (note how Ipili are now ‘indigenous’)

You can also listen to about 8 minutes into this broadcast of today’s As It Happens to hear an interview with Jethro Tulin: “As It Happens 1 May 2009″:http://www.cbc.ca/mrl3/8752/asithappens/20090501-aih-3.wmv — I have a (hand-typed) transcript if anyone wants it.

From the post: “Porgera up in flames”:http://www.postcourier.com.pg/20090430/news01.htm

I haven’t seen anything from Barrick yet, and have no news ‘from the ground’. I’ll try to comment more tomorrow.

p.s. in other news, “Joe Gabut has been assaulted by people from the Tari-Hides area”:http://www.postcourier.com.pg/20090430/news02.htm.

From “The National”:http://www.thenational.com.pg/042409/nation4.php

For some reason, the wikipedia page on “Chinese people in Papua New Guinea”:http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chinese_people_in_Papua_New_Guinea is unusually good.

The hydrocarbon industry in Papua New Guinea is moving so quickly at the moment that I usually don’t bother posting all the interesting articles I read. However, “this new article in Euromoney.com”:http://www.euromoney.com/Article/2173612/CurrentIssue/71519/Papua-New-Guineas-pipeline-to-change.html?ID=71519&p=1 is pretty in-depth and helpful for discussing what is going on macroeconomically in the country.

I’ve been following the deployment of the Papua New Guinea Defense Force to Porgera for a while but here is some info for the record:

First, ABC’s main piece with an interview with Ila Temu:

“PNG Troops Deployed to Curb Highlands Lawlessness”:http://www.radioaustralia.net.au/pacbeat/stories/200903/s2505288.htm

As well as a shorter piece in the national from, I believe, 13 March 2009

“PNGDF Called Out To Curb Crime In Porgera”:http://www.thenational.com.pg/030209/nation31.php (scroll down)

They have an editorial as well: “Impose State of Emergency on Porgera”:http://www.thenational.com.pg/030209/lead_editorial.php from the same day.

“Lihir has stopped production for the time being for landowner issues”:http://www.reuters.com/article/rbssPreciousMetalsMinerals/idUSSYD39339920090126. Ouch.

Somehow with Taiwanese politicians having their careers ruined over PNG diplomacy scandals and egregious witchcraft killings in the highlands and developments with PNG’s big hydrocarbon projects you’d think I’d have something else to say but in fact the one newspaper article I have to blog about or else I’ll forget it is in fact that “Barrick has a new CEO”:http://www.bloomberg.com/apps/news?pid=20601082&sid=a3iif9TXhW8c&refer=canada. Go figure.

The Globe and Mail is running a longish article on “Papua New Guinea and China’s New Empire”:http://www.theglobeandmail.com/servlet/story/RTGAM.20081231.wyorkchina0103/CommentStory/International/home. The piece begins with a description of China’s ‘new empire’ and its use of soft power, especially in Africa, and ends with a discussion of the Ramu nickel mine. It is an interesting piece, although not as interesting as the “comments”:http://www.theglobeandmail.com/servlet/story/RTGAM.20081231.wyorkchina0103/CommentStory/International/home attached to it (e.g. “Let them drink the water from the fast running amoebic streams and let them suffer from the toxic snails that are everywhere.”)

The piece strikes me as balanced and it represents most sides of the story — on the never-ending issue of entrance visas, for instance, it notes that Chinese are frustrated with the lack of skilled workers in country (a chronic problem in PNG’s booming mining and energy sector these days) and the PNG bureaucracy’s lack of capacity (“low proficiency” is how one Ramu exec described them to me). At the same time, it also notes that Chinese do enter the country illegally.

In many ways the Ramu story is not particularly new — a foreign investor starts a mine, creates a community affairs department, struggles with landowner discontent, gives equity to stakeholders, etc. What is interesting — and not touched on heavily in the article — is the fact that Chinese people have been in Papua New Guinea for over a century at least, and that long-standing anti-Chinese sentiment, rather than independence-era anti-Australian sentiment , is being mobilized. Crucially, this means both PNG and Australian sentiment will be focused against the Chinese.

I would have liked to see more regarding the debate over tailings disposal, and there is no real discussion of landowner politics, except that there are some and they have some — there is no story, for instance, of the unraveling of the agreements of the late nineties and early oughts which had been secured before Highland Pacific started its long search for a partner with the capital to build the mine.

But as a general overview of Chinese softpower in the Pacific, it is a good way to start.

I’m always interested to see what sort of images and models people use to understand rural Papua New Guinea — tribes, clans, peasants, etc. So I was thought this recent article about “warring hill tribes in the Southern Highlands”:http://www.radioaustralia.net.au/programguide/stories/200810/s2384715.htm was pretty interesting. “Hill tribes”? That’s not one I hear very often. I think of Tari as being a relatively flat place. ‘Hill tribe’ sounds vaguely Southeast Asian to me (as in “of Burma”). Perhaps it is a model imported from the Philippines by the Filipino nun who is being interviewed?

PNG is not as susceptible to analyses of neoliberalism that way that other places are, but the living edge of privatization and all its ambivalences is the phone system and Digicel. There’s a nice new article on “Digicel and BMobile”:http://www.islandsbusiness.com/islands_business/index_dynamic/containerNameToReplace=MiddleMiddle/focusModuleID=18199/overideSkinName=issueArticle-full.tpl in Island Business that is worth reading to keep up on current trends.

Mike Manning, chair of Transparency International and a major player in the “Institute for National Affairs”:http://www.inapng.com/ “died Saturday in Rabaul”:http://www.radioaustralia.net.au/news/stories/200808/s2344888.htm?tab=pacific. Mike was a naturalized citizen of Papua New Guinea and he epitomized a certain sort of crusty, cynical Australian expatism that is such a strong — and ambivalent — part of PNG’s history.I did not know Mike well, running into him occasionally, most recently at an embassy party in Port Moresby in the summer of 2007. He was pro-business and anti-mucking about, but underneath the gruff demeanor had a kind streak and a genuine desire to help others.

Mike spent much of life trying to help business flourish in Papua New Guinea, and for me the most important thing about this was his support for original research and policy work at the INA. INA publications remain an important part of understanding Papua New Guinea and indispensable ‘grey literature’ about the country and they form, like the INA itself, a part of Mike that will continue to live on in future years.

It’s been a long time coming, but it looks like “Kuk is now a UNESCO world heritage site”:http://news.trendaz.com/index.shtml?show=news&newsid=1241417&lang=EN. If you don’t know about Kuk you can “read more about it here”:http://whc.unesco.org/en/tentativelists/5059/

Some random links and news relating to PNG: “Motu Koita people want compensation for colonialization”:http://www.theaustralian.news.com.au/story/0,25197,23968054-16953,00.html: one unexpectedly interesting thing about this article is its avoidance of the terms ‘tribe’ or ‘indigenous’ — ‘tribe’ is mentioned once but stays out of the headline, and the Motu Koita spokesman uses the term ‘landowner’ once. Instead ‘people’ is the word used to described these… people. It works just fine.

For more on the colonization of PNG you can read “Chris Ballard and Bill Gammage talk about Taim Blo Masta”:http://www.abc.net.au/rn/counterpoint/stories/2005/1402194.htm, specifically the Fox and Hagen-Sepik patrols.

In more recent news “China is PNG’s third largest trading partner”:http://www.pacificmagazine.net/news/2008/07/02/china-now-pngs-third-largest-trading-partner , and “InterOil is having hard times”:http://www.forbes.com/markets/2008/07/04/interoil-papua-newguinea-markets-equity-cx_ra_0703markets32.html because, among other things, the Prime Minister thinks the government’s contract with InterOil should be renegotiated. Somare himself is under scrutiny as “the opposition compare him to Mugabe”:http://www.rnzi.com/pages/news.php?op=read&id=40732.

There’s lots more of course, but that’s what was open in my browser window this morning.

Ther PNG blogosphere is actually pretty active although I have to admit that I don’t follow it as much as I should. Two new recent blogs by anthropologists working on PNG are worth noting, however — “Politics of Nature”:http://politicsofnature.wordpress.com/ by Jamon Halvaksz and “The Melanesian”:http://themelanesian.org/ by Andrew Moutu. Jamon’s has been around for a year or so while The Melanesian is much more recent and (in its two posts so far) has been the place where debates about the Frieda mine have spilled out of The National and onto the Internet, which is great. So check it/them out.

So “Koiari apologize for killing sevende missonary”:http://www.stanet.ch/apd/news/1841.html — a very different invocation of PNG’s past then that detailed in Lindstrom’s excellent “review article on the concept of ‘kastom’”:http://www.informaworld.com/smpp/content~content=a794152470~db=all?jumptype=alert&alerttype=new_issue_alert,email.

“Bad times at Wafi and Hidden Valley”:http://afp.google.com/article/ALeqM5jFPbETQHAXvVa1AUtcUKChU00v2g

“The new Jared Diamond piece in the New Yorker”:http://www.newyorker.com/reporting/2008/04/21/080421fa_fact_diamond

Note to self: I fact-checked this.

An article on “tourism in PNG”:http://www.smh.com.au/news/papua-new-guinea/the-last-frontier/2008/03/13/1205126091209.html from the Sydney Morning Herald.

According to Inmet “the Ok Tedi strike is over”:http://www.reuters.com/article/rbssIndustryMaterialsUtilitiesNews/idUSN1439327920080314 and over at the “Sydney Morning Herald”:http://www.smh.com.au/news/world/png-pm-to-step-down-after-40-year-career/2008/03/15/1205472171792.html Michael Somare says he is stepping down. I do not keep my finger on the beating pulse of PNG politics, but my bet is that he’s figured out that it will be easier to rock the cradle when he’s not in it.

Workers at Ok Tedi Mine are “on strike”:http://www.iht.com/articles/2008/03/12/business/mine.php. Sounds like OTML’s attempt to retain engineers in the face of growing demand and low supply ended up upsetting everyone else.

In my recent trip to Australia I was bowled over to find what a superb job the Australian government has done of digitizing its archives. Now you don’t need to trek out to the Australian War Memorial (which has a “blog”:http://blog.awm.gov.au/) — You can now view, digitized, the “ENTIRE ANGAU WAR DIARY”:http://www.awm.gov.au/diaries/ww2/folder.asp?folder=288 as well as many other records — I can’t be bothered to dig out the numbers now. Amazing.

I was also glad to be turned on to the work of “Geoffrey Grey”:http://recollections.nma.gov.au/issues/vol_2_no2/papers/cluttering_up_the_department/geoffrey_gray/ who has published on “Ronald Berndt and Sydney Uni’s collection of artifacts”:http://recollections.nma.gov.au/issues/vol_2_no2/papers/cluttering_up_the_department/, “the politics of anthropology in Australia”:http://www.aiatsis.gov.au/aboriginal_studies_press/find_a_book/recent_releases/a_cautious_silence and “the history of Australian anthropologists’ involvement in WWII”:http://web.ebscohost.com/ehost/detail?vid=3&hid=115&sid=6f1ae1aa-c9cc-4e87-a2a4-3059bc094641%40sessionmgr103 (sorry that last URL may be too crufty to work for you).

Superb, superb work in making research and records available.

Check out this fancy new site for “Milne Bay Tourism”:http://www.visitmilnebay.com/ — very nice indeed.

After earlier issues with a temporary closure it looks like “Lihir is back on track”:http://www.news.com.au/business/story/0,23636,23131449-14334,00.html

I knew about the “ASOPA website”;http://www.asopa.com.au/ for some time, but didn’t know there was a “blog”:http://asopa.typepad.com/asopa_people/ as well. Awesome.

Another illegal miner has been shot in Porgera — there is coverage at “The National”:http://www.thenational.com.pg/010208/Nation%205.htm and “The Age”:http://news.theage.com.au/illegal-miner-shot-dead-in-png/20080102-1jun.html

Just in case you missed it, while I was away PNG has faced one of its most major natural disasters in years: “tropical cyclone Guba”:http://www.bloomberg.com/apps/news?pid=20601081&sid=amp_W1VamMGs&refer=australia

In other news “macroeconomic indicators continue to look good”:http://www.forbes.com/markets/feeds/afx/2007/11/19/afx4353296.html

Here’s a PNG story that has been making headlines recently, “malaria climbs into highlands PNG”:http://www.iht.com/articles/ap/2007/12/09/asia/AS-GEN-Bali-Climate-Quiet-Scourge.php. Mostly its a write up of some PNGIMR research. I appreciate the fact that it lacks the usual “ooohh ahhh they’re cannibals” extremism that too often populates news stories about PNG. It even gets myths of malaria right — in Porgera people thought that if you went down to the low altitude areas (the _wapi_) you’d get sick and become a sorcerer with incredibly long fingernails. So there you go.

I have always known, deep in my heart, that John Burton had the heart and soul of a blogger. But his recent blog, despite the occasional entry that is “incomprehensible”:http://rspas.anu.edu.au/blogs/rmap/2007/10/29/frightenstein-drives-stake-into-sinking-atolls/#more-529 (at least to those of us who are not aging commonwealthers) are “furniture chewing”:http://rspas.anu.edu.au/blogs/rmap/2007/10/26/cross-cultural-misunderstanding-and-4wds/ at “its very best”:http://rspas.anu.edu.au/blogs/rmap/2007/10/31/hacks-move-decimal-point-again/.

Here are some links about the First Contact trilogy that I may use later on this semester:

“An obituary of Robin Anderson”:http://www.aftrs.edu.au/index.cfm?objectid=D2EB0A32-D0B7-4CD6-F92A1DC2894B1500

“Degrees of Otherness: A Close Reading of First Contact”:http://www.anthrosource.net/doi/abs/10.1525/var.1994.10.2.55?journalCode=var — from Visual Anthropology Review

Its official — “Barrick is buying into Kainantu”:http://www.barrick.com/News/PressReleases/2007/BarricktoAcquireHighlyProspectivePropertiesinPNG/default.aspx.

There a “new joint venture between Triple Plate and Barrick”:http://www.rttnews.com/sp/breakingnews.asp?date=10/22/2007&item=16

It looks like “Oil Search is going with Exxon”:http://uk.reuters.com/article/oilRpt/idUKSYD9861820071023 on the LNG project.

ANU’s Artisinal mining research center has “online papers”:http://www.asmasiapacific.org/documentsview.aspx

“Papua New Guinea delegation donates gold for rebuilding Temple”:http://www.ynetnews.com/articles/0,7340,L-3457263,00.html

The new issue of Ethnography has a “special section on middle managers in global firms”:http://eth.sagepub.com/content/vol8/issue3/ including an article by John Hassard.

Oops. InterOil shares drop 25% as “Elk 2 comes up dry”:http://communities.canada.com/nationalpost/blogs/tradingdesk/archive/2007/10/03/interoil-shares-fall-on-suspension-of-elk-2-well.aspx

Two books on the state end of the tripod:
“State Formation and Political Legitimacy”:http://books.google.com/books?id=mgDBG5zu1xYC&pg=PA85&dq=ideology+and+the+formation+of+early+states&sig=Vj2weuV1Rp-ZhFPTfGgDquwqm8A#PPP1,M1
“Ideology and the formation of early states”:http://books.google.com/books?id=rtwxaNSsMbUC&pg=PP1&dq=ideology+and+the+formation+of+early+states&sig=jyyxLii9wt9lbA3TjgsRHHB_V0w#PPR5,M1

A fat book on “The Origins of the European Economy”:http://www.amazon.com/Origins-European-Economy-Communications-Commerce/dp/0521661021/ref=si3_rdr_bb_product/105-4927962-4957223

The CFP for the “International Journal of Role Playing”:http://play.blogs.com/rp/ …

…And the mysterious “journalhosting.org”:http://journalhosting.org/

Two pieces of PNG-related news today that may have escaped the normal radar. First, “Laurie Critchley has finished a documentary on Dan Leahy’s wives”:http://www.theage.com.au/news/tv–radio/a-tale-of-papuan-polygamy/2007/09/25/1190486315171.html which would make a _great_ edition to my First Contact course — can anyone tape this for me?

Second, “there’s a new racquet club in town”:http://www.openpr.com/news/29147/Papua-New-Guinea-welcomes-the-Airways-Health-and-Racquet-Club.html: Will the Aviat be overthrown, or is Jackson’s too far away from Town to lure people out? Only time will tell….

UPDATE: Here’s the URL for the “Leahy family documentary”:http://www.abc.net.au/dynasties/special.htm

Check out this “phat new issue of Anthropological Forum”:http://www.tandf.co.uk/journals/spissue/canf-si.asp! Gratz to all contributors — it looks like it will be fantastic.

Some news on mining in PNG:

“Yandera prospect looks good”:http://www.wabusinessnews.com.au/en-story/1/56861/Marnego-forecasts-Yandera-production-by-2011 — they’re forecasting production in 2011.

“Harmony is looking for cash for Hidden Valley”:http://www.mineweb.net/mineweb/view/mineweb/en/page504?oid=27296&sn=Detail

and last but not least: “China National Petroleum Corporation is eyeing Oil Search”:http://www.forbes.com/markets/2007/09/17/cnpc-oil-search-markets-equity-cx_jc_0917markets04.html

Kaloo-kalay! The PNGIMR has, bless their hearts, “digitized back issues of the PNG Medical Journal”:http://www.pngimr.org.pg/medicaljournals.htm! A high-quality, hard-to-find journal is now available and open to all. Good job PNIMR!!

I was shocked and dismayed this morning to read that “Guy Mascord was killed in Port Moresby earlier this month”:http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/main.jhtml?xml=/news/2007/08/23/wpapua123.xml (more “here”:http://www.stratford-herald.co.uk/mainstory.php?ID=1135 and “here”:http://www.news.com.au/dailytelegraph/story/0,22049,22288197-5012773,00.html). This episode made the paper because he hired a (as the paper puts it) ‘witchdoctor’ to bespell his house in order to keep people away. But for me this terrible news is much more serious than this somewhat salacious detail allows.

I knew Guy Mascord well when I lived in Papua New Guinea from 1999 to 2001. He and his wife frequently worked as contractors at the Porgera Gold Mine, and I stayed with them there and visited them when they lived with in Alotau. I remember Guy as a small, quiet man with a twinkle in his eyes who I knew mostly in his capacity as a consultant for the Porgera Joint Venture. Like many permanent expats in Papua New Guinea, Guy managed to combine a deep cynicism about the fickle nature of life in PNG with a firm optimism about the country and its possibilities. He was a keen observer of Porgera and our conversations about local politics and the ups and downs of gold mining informed my own views of the valley. His loss is a terrible tragedy and I send my condolences to his family during what must be a very very difficult time.

‘Tis the season for the Western Highlands and Enga cultural shows. The “BBC has some pictures”:http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/in_pictures/6956504.stm.

This piece on “13th Mask Festival”:http://www.postcourier.com.pg/20070810/weekend01.htm at Rabaul touches briefly on one of my own interests — how Papua New Guineans understand their own ‘traditional culture’.

Sssshhh…. don’t tell Barrick, but “one of their employees is blogging”:http://davidwillms.blogspot.com/ about life in Porgera. This is great for me, since the group that I had least access to during my research in Porgera was expatriate miners. It makes for interesting reading about what a white miner thinks about the “crazies” that live “on the other side of the fence” at Porgera, something I don’t know much about since my specialty was living with said crazies. Williams is right that Porgerans consider white people chewing betelnut hilarious, but I am not sure about the two Ps he put in “Ippili” and the two Gs in “cigarette.”

I actually feel bad pointing up this blog. I have no idea what PJV’s policy on blogging is but I imagine that too much publicity will just get thing thing rolled up by management.

PNG is often described using ‘primitizing’ metaphors like ’stone age’, ‘ancient’ and so forth. But it doesn’t get much more literal than this: “Ropens: Live Pterosaurs in Papua New Guinea”:http://www.ropens.com/.

The new “Sinivit gold mine”:http://www.newguineagold.ca/Sinivit.html in East New Britain is now online and their first gold pour is expected for May. For some photos of what the start of a gold mine looks like check out “the press release”:http://www.newguineagold.ca/PressReleases2007.html#apr30. This is Baining, Jane Fajans country but I have no idea what their social impact work was like or how community affairs is constructed or anything.

Looking at these pictures of systematic destruction of the natural environment it occurs to me how desensitized I’ve become to what mining does to the environment. It is sort of like the Rodney King effect — defense attorneys who defended policemen who beat up King had to decide how to deal with the explosive video tape of them beating him. The strategy — iirc — was not to avoid the tape, but to show it to the jury over and over and over again until it was no longer shocking to them. It is sort of amazing to see images of once-forested ridges stripped of all life and ready to get ground into bits and turned into shiny gold bars. Every fork and spoon in our house got dug out of the ground the exact same way. Except, of course, the plastic ones. But anyway.

Looks like Porgera has halted operations temporarily — more at “The Nation”:http://www.thenational.com.pg/042507/nation2.htm and “The Post”:http://www.postcourier.com.pg/20070427/business.htm

“Barrick has bought Emperor’s equity in Porgera”:http://www.canadianminingjournal.com/issues/ISArticle.asp?id=67959&issue=04222007 — which means its just them and in-country equity now in Porgera.

Here’s an article from Islands Business on “Chinese in Papua New Guinea”:http://www.islandsbusiness.com/islands_business/index_dynamic/containerNameToReplace=MiddleMiddle/focusModuleID=17355/overideSkinName=issueArticle-full.tpl and how the long-time Chinese expat community and the growing PRC presence in PNG is playing in national politics.

David Martinez of “CorpWatch”:http://www.corpwatch.org/ has just finished an “article on the Porgera gold mine”:http://www.corpwatch.org/article.php?id=14381 which summarizes a longer report (I haven’t read the report yet — just the article on the website). I emailed him back and forth for a bit and I’m quoted a few times in the story. Its worth reading if you are interested in Porger and particularly how debates in the valley get picked up and circulated in international fora — check out the “cartoon”:http://www.corpwatch.org/img/original/Papua.jpg that came with the article. Is it just me or is the mountain gendered female in the picture? This fits in well with the idea of the exploitation of ‘mother earth’ familiar with first world activists but not with Ipili conceptions of Kupiane — the snake inside the mountain that makes the gold — being male. There are also a few other zingers in the piece that could have been fact checked: the tailing from the mine eventually make their way into the Gulf of Papua, not the Coral Sea as the article claims.

But these are small quibbles and the article at least shows great restraint given the lefty inclinations of CorpWatch. And indeed, since 2001, it has gotten harder and harder to pain the mine as a success story (as I did in my dissertation) in which mine and Ipili needs and demands were more or less in equilibrium. Mounting social pressure, shooting of illegal miners, and so forth have all taken their toll on life in the valley — or at least so it seems to me from this distance. Also I must say that I am sort of partial to this report because its _tene_ are my Waiwa brothers Nelson Akiko and William Gaupe and you _know_ I still represent for Waiwa.

So while I think that “Kelly Patterson’s article”:http://alex.golub.name/log/2006/06/04/article-on-the-ipili-in-the-ottowa-citizen/ does a better job of sounding out the complexities of the mine’s entanglement with Porgera, I like CorpWatch’s report just because it is ethnographically richer — there are pictures of Nelson, transcriptions of interviews, etc. Check it out.

I was in the shower this morning thinking about Dru Gladney’s writings on ethnic minorities in China and specifically why I hadn’t ever read any of them despite the fact (according to everyone I talk to) that I should have. There are many reasons I haven’t read Gladney’s work (other than the excellent edited volume ‘making majorities’) and it was then that a thought struck me — an idea that I’d chewed around the edges of but had never really been able to put explicitly. In China, non-Han ethnic groups are minorities in the classical sense — they are the ‘other’ against whom Han imagine themselves as the unmarked category. Ethnic identity in China is (I’m guessing, since I’ve never read anything about it) about the familiar process of boundary maintenance — delimiting majority ethnic identity vis-a-vis making other Others.

But not in Papua New Guinea. Landowners in Papua New Guinea — who we call ‘indigenous people’ even though this isn’t quite the right term — play a totally different role in Papua New. In Papua New Guinea, grass roots people are _central_ to national identity. Papua New Guineans — and especially the ones in Moresby — see rural Papua New Guineans as central to their identity, the true repository and custodian of what it means to be Papua New Guinean. This is the reason that people who were born in Moresby, were raised in New Ireland, and went to college in Queensland describe themselves as ‘from Laiagam’ — because that is where one of their parents were from and all Papua New Guineans are supposed to be ‘from a village’.

I know that this is an obvious thing to say to people who think about Papua New Guinea, but framing the issue in this way did help me get some intellectual work done — by being central rather than peripheral to national identity, rural Papua New Guineans figure quite differently in their national imagination than most other ‘indigenous people’. And the incredibly touchiness that urban Papua New Guineans have about landowners — the inability to forgive opportunism, the insistence that they must all love to farm and have no aspirations for development, they must all preserve kastom and tok ples — this can also be attributed to a sensitivity that is the result of the high moral and sentimental stakes which rural Papua New Guineans have to bear in the name of their fellow countrymen.

Woah — Interoil has “made it to the New York Times”:http://www.nytimes.com/2007/01/21/business/yourmoney/21oil.html?_r=1&ref=yourmoney&oref=slogin. Any guess how long it takes the piece to mention cannibalism?

Think about it fer a sec…

….

Yup — the first sentence of the piece, 17 words in.

Islands Business has a nice wrap-up of “W. Clinton’s trip to PNG”:http://www.islandsbusiness.com/islands_business/index_dynamic/containerNameToReplace=MiddleMiddle/focusModuleID=17203/overideSkinName=issueArticle-full.tpl including his receipt of the nation’s highest honor — the PNG equivalent of being knighted. Typically (and depressingly) some journalists recorded this as Clinton “being made a tribal chief”. Clinton was much more diplomatic about the country’s place in Anglo-protestant mythology as ‘the last unknown’ saying only that it had “a special place in my imagination”.

Here is a “good article on the increasing role of the PRC in the Pacific”:http://english.hani.co.kr/arti/english_edition/e_international/174736.html. The article focuses on Papua New Guinea, and is right on target — there have always been Chinese expats in PNG, and the Pacific has always been a place where Taiwan and the PRC have fought for diplomatic recognition. But with a mainland firm operating the Ramu nickel mine and other expansion in the area, Chinese interest in the Pacific is taking a notably different form.

Here’s something I’ll try to read in class tomorrow if I can ever get around to it — Nancy Sullivan on “the Trobriand art of persuasion”:http://www.nancysullivan.org/article-thetrobriandsartofpersuasion.htm. Yes, people other than “professional baseball players:”http://www.dushkin.com/olc/genarticle.mhtml?article=27128 believe in magic…

One of the ironies of living in Hawaii after living in highlands Papua New Guinea is that all the tropical flora and fauna doesn’t look ‘exotic’ the way it does to mainlanders who first arrive here. It looks slightly… _off_. Many varieties of pandanus grow here in Honolulu, for instance, but none of them resemble the stuff that I saw in Porgera (where Pandanus is totally central to the culture of the area). I keep having conversations about this with people here who have never seen ‘my’ version of pandanus. So this blog entry is a mental note and bookmark to this great picture of “Marita”:http://www.pngbd.com/photos/watermark.php?file=505/3412Madang_Market_Marita_Red_Pandanus_Madang.jpg, which is both delicious and very hard to find pictures of, even on the Internet. Yes folks: it really _doesn’t_ look anything like coastal pandanus fruits or… well… anything else, really.

On 16 September Papua New Guinea celebrated it’s (if I can count) 32nd anniversary of independence. Hurray congratulations!

I spent the weekend moving and so I almost missed this: “Porgera landowners want state of emergency”:http://www.postcourier.com.pg/20060803/news06.htm. Nixon Mangape calls me brother (my adopted mother and his mother were sisters) and so it’s always a pleasure to see him in the press. Enga province, where Porgera is located, has a long history of states of emergency and suspensions of provincial government that is the result of various factions within the province jostling for supremacy. It is only recently that Southern Highlands has managed to pull ahead on the most-suspended, most-emergencied province list. Despite what one might think of Peter Ipatas, the governor of Enga, I think it is a sign of his success as a leader that he was able to so eclipse other contenders for power in the province that he could be convicted of corruption charges _without_ people burning down the Provincial Government Offices, as has happened in the pat. Twice.

“Positive.Negative”:http://www.positivenegative.net.au/ is a an AusAid-sponsored touring photo exhibit which uses pictures of everyday life in order to educate people about the dangers of HIV/AIDS in countries of strategic importance to the Australian Government. It includes some wonderful pictures by “Lorrie Graham”:http://www.lorriegraham.com/ of people in “Papua New Guinea”:http://www.positivenegative.net.au/photos/photos_graham.asp, where HIV/AIDS is indeed an enormous problem (she has an “extended selection”:http://www.lorriegraham.com/collections/aid/aid_thumbs_1.htm of these photos on her personal site). Take a look at the pictures and learn about the issue as well — unfortunately this is a problem that is not going to go away by itself.

“Tautai Contemporary Pacific Arts Trust”:http://www.tautai.org/home.php has a cool website (via Dan Taulapapa McMullin (check out his poem “The Bat”:http://www.nzepc.auckland.ac.nz/features/whetu_moana/mcmullin.asp)).

Buffalo Gold now has a “Mt. Kare”:http://www.buffalogold.ca/s/MtKareProject.asp page. More on their trials and tribulations “here”:http://news.goldseek.com/StewartArmstrong/1151607270.php

Well its finally happened — Placer’s old Porgera information page is now over on the “Barrick website”:http://www.barrick.com/Default.aspx?SectionID=AE16ED96-78D3-4451-AB11-281B502746FB&LanguageID=1&ProjectId=e84dc542-4437-4761-af82-35d7a603d457. For almost thirty years ‘Placer’ was synonymous with Porgera. No longer. It’s the end of an era. Even worse, Barrick has none of the informative PDFs and fact sheets that Porgera used to have. Phooey.

There’s a blog title that will confuse all but the truly initiated. Post Courier article here covers “the decision”:http://www.postcourier.com.pg/20060614/business.htm.

The Ottowa Citizen has published a “lengthy article on the Ipili and Placer”:http://www.canada.com/ottawacitizen/news/story.html?id=26bacccd-fa28-4f96-b067-a436b6a6d881 by Kelly Patterson. Patterson spent a LOT of time emailing me about the article and I’m quoted extensively in it. She’s also interviewed my colleagues Jerry Jacka and Glenn Banks. It is a little strange seeing one’s words reproduced on the page, but I guess that turn about is fair play and as an anthropologist I’m the last person who should complain about how strange it is being reported upon! The article is quite long and does an excellent job of summing up what has become an incredibly complex and emotional topic, for which Patterson deserves credit. I am sure that it will not please everyone, and that several of the groups party to Porgeran politics will feel that they have not been sympathetically rendered, and that others got off too light. But this is just the way things go in the valley.

I’d recommend the article to friends and family interested in learning a little bit more about some of the issues involved in my fieldsite.

This is _very_ old news but I thought I would post it anyway: Anne Kajir has won the Goldman environmental prize. Anne is a lawyer in PNG who has worked to expose and publicize corruption in the logging industry. Given how incredibly corrupt the logging industry in PNG is, it isn’t too hard to expose them, but what is hard is to get something _done_ about what they are doing to the country. It’s here that Anne has excelled. I hope the Goldman prize will make her and her work even more visible.

The best thing about the prize is that the award page as “an awesome movie about Anne and her work on logging”:http://www.goldmanprize.org/node/440 which is very well produced, quite short, and perfect for showing in the classroom when paired with an article, or just to start discussion. I encourage you all to check it out.

I think of Tolukuma as being unusual in PNG as the only mine in the country that doesn’t have a road (or sea access) to its plant. This doesn’t mean that they haven’t had ‘landowner problems’ — in fact they are also, so far as I know, the only mine in PNG which has incorporated immigrants into the group of stakeholders it consults with. And now there’s “even more gold there”:http://www.thenational.com.pg/050106/business1.htm. Good news for (now) Emporer.

Now if they can just avoid dropping any more of that cyanide as they helicopter it up to the mine site.
Oxfam has a “great page on Tolukuma’s social and environmental issues”:http://www.oxfam.org.au/campaigns/mining/ombudsman/2004/cases/tolukuma/index.html. DRD’s “Tolukuma page”:http://www.drd.co.za/def_main.asp?PathId=Our_Mines/Tolukuma.asp&MineId=6 still have PDFs of the “2004 ‘Social Responsibility Report’”:http://www.drd.co.za/our_mines/pdf/tgm_soc_resp_final.pdf and “newsletters”:http://www.drd.co.za/Our_Mines/pdf/Tolokuma_Times/tolukuma_dec05.pdf distributed around the mine site which are wonderful ethnographic documents in themselves. UH’s own “East-West Center”:http://eastwestcenter.org/ has an “abstract”:http://pbc.eastwestcenter.org/Abstracts2005/Abstract2005Singh.htm about the spill.

It’s hard keeping up with all the personnel changes that happen at Porgera. In 2004 Brad Gordon was (iirc) the mine manager and in the past couple of years he’s jumped from that to being managing director and is now “working for Empire”:http://www.thenational.com.pg/042806/business2.htm.

Some quick links for people trying to turn Google Earth’s pictures of PNG into intelligible maps:

“Ethnologue maps”:http://www.ethnologue.com/show_map.asp?name=PG — Ethnologue has made PNG language maps available for free consultation on the web. Vaguely remember Hogbin’s _The Leader and the Led_ and want to find Wogeo? Look no further. The comfortingly bounded, internally discrete, color-coded language groupings here are soothingly panoptic. *Sigh* if only ethnicity and culture really worked that way. Well at least it is good for finding stuff.

“Airstrips of Papua New Guinea”:http://users.bigpond.net.au/billsview/airstrips.htm — A quick way to locating towns and patrol posts. You can enter the lat/long coordinates in Google Earth and it will zoom right in. Paiela is listed as 0522.40 14258.48 — just put 05 22.40′ S 142 58.48′ E into Google Earth and it’ll zoom right in.

If some truly brave soul wants to create a complete set of Airstrip placemarks and email it to me, I’ll make it publically available — I know this information is coded somewhere, but not somewhere as easily findable as my blog, and not for free. Alternately let it be known that I’m also collecting coordinates for people’s fieldsites, so if you want to email me the placemark where you did fieldwork do that and I’ll add you to The Big List. But more on that project for another time.

UPDATE:
“fallingrain.com”:http://www.fallingrain.com/world/PP/ has many lat/long coordinates of places. Curiously organized and random, but still useful.

“Geonet name server PNG locations”:http://earth-info.nga.mil/gns/html/cntyfile/pp.zip — Official USA Government Stuff

The University of California Press tells me that Holly Wardlow’s new book, “Wayward Women”:http://www.ucpress.edu/books/pages/10451.html is finally out. The topic is important and Holly is smart and her previous work has been excellent. And best of all, since _Wayward Women_ will be coming out in paper, it will be SEVENTY DOLLARS LESS than “her other book”:http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0754643123/sr=8-3/qid=1143051987/ref=sr_1_3/002-5846516-4008032?%5Fencoding=UTF8

I love the short radio program “Earth and Sky”:http://www.earthsky.org/shows/show.php?date=20060422 for many reasons — mostly having to do with the poetic compactness of its title and byline. But now it also features one of my favorite anthropologists — Paige West — talking about gold mining! Go Paige go! One quick note however: Paige says that “When you have a mine, you have to have a road. And when you build a road into a roadless area, lots of people come in . . . then you’re going to have disease that comes in . . . people are going to have access to alcohol, to guns, to all sorts of things.” This is not actually true, technically — if I remember correctly, the Tolukuma mine has no road going into it and all supplies are flown in and out. I know little about the prospect that Paige mentions, but given its likely size and location it’s not inconceivable that this would work for Maimafu. Of course not having a road hasn’t really spared Tolukuma from having guns and people coming in — but it certainly has blunted what could have otherwise been quite a nasty impact. Of course the flip side of delivering all of your supplies via helicopter means things like accidentally spilling cyanide over bits of Gulf Province. So I guess you win some and you loose some.

Paige works on environmentalish related stuff in PNG, so maybe this is also a good post to mention “Forest Trend’s”:http://www.forest-trends.org new report on “logging in PNG”:http://www.forest-trends.org/documents/publications/PNG2006/png.php which actually got PNG a nod on “CNN”:http://www.cnn.com/2006/BUSINESS/02/27/png.logging/.

My dissertation is now available for download! This is the version I submitted to the dissertation office (‘the margin nazis’) at the University of Chicago, so it is only semi-canonical — there may be changes to the formatting of the bibliography, page numbers, and so forth. Additionally, I just hit ‘convert to PDF’ in Open Office, and haven’t gone back and checked that everything was PDFified ok. The Official Version will be the UMI version, but that won’t be out for another eight months to a year, so I figured I will put this up. I am a notoriously poor speller and proofreader, so please do not tell me about typos in the final version — it will make me feel bad and might tip off the dissertation office. So let’s just call it good and move on, shall we?

“Making the Ipili Feasible: Imagining Local and Global Actors at the Porgera Gold Mine, Enga Province, Papua New Guinea”:http://alex.golub.name/res/writing/Golub2006.pdf (1.5 meg PDF download)

Some day I want to write a paper emphasizing the personalistic nature of kiap rule during Papua New Guinea’s colonial period, perhaps by discussing it in terms of the ‘heroic’ mode of history Sahlins discusses in Islands of History. Where were PNGians supposed to learn about bureaucratic rationality when they were governed by this sort of system? And is it really surprising that ‘corruption’ today takes the form of an equally personalistic (but less disciplined) form of governance.

Someday, someday.

There’s a fascinating editorial in _The National_ (one of Papua New Guinea’s top newspapers) entitled “Socery and Witchcraft Hinder Development Process”:http://www.thenational.com.pg/011706/column5.htm. Sorcery and witchcraft allegations have long been linked to social leveling, particularly on the coast, where open conflict is simply not acceptable the way it is in the highlands, where I work. The hunting and killing of ‘witches’ in the highlands is something that I heard about when I was living in PNG, and is apparently becoming more common — I have a colleague who writes extensively on this issue and was in the middle of a couple of cases of this sort of thing. Why this is happening is unclear — persecuting witches (particularly females) is a new development in the highlands, not ‘traditional’ (although, to be sure, it’s rooted in deeply-held culturally specific logics). Its also part of the wider trend that makes anthropological concerns about ‘cultural relativism’ increasingly moot in highlands PNG today. It doesn’t take much moral certainty to oppose the execution of ‘witches.’ Writing about this sort of thing, which is of pressing importance socially for Papua New Guineans today (hence the editorial) often brands one as ‘exoticizing the other’ or ‘denying their coevalness.’ But of course sorcery and witchcraft is not something the anthropologist made up, nor is its importance as a problem to be addressed in PNG an agenda imposed from the outside.

One of my new years resolutions was to be more active in blogging stuff that I found in the news about my fieldsite, the Porgera gold mine in Enga province. Both “The National”:http://www.thenational.com.pg/011306/nation4.htm and “The Post-Courier”:http://www.postcourier.com.pg/20060113/business.htm are reporting that a three-day strike is underway in Porgera. The cause of the strike — at least according to the newspapers, one can never be too sure about what is actually going on on the ground in Porgera — is Barrick Gold’s take-over of Placer Dome. Placer Dome is the majority shareholder in the unincorporated joint venture which operates the mine, the PJV. I’ve been following Barrick’s bid — at first Peter Tomsett, CEO of Placer Dome (and no stranger to Porgera), advised investors against the take over, but after (as I understand it) a better offer was made Placer Dome went ahead with the deal.

I have no idea how Barrick’s take over will affect Placer, but give how these things work I expect that there would not be too many changes on the ground in Porgera. Nonetheless, people appear to be striking. Porgerans have many (MANY) different ideas about how international finance works, and I wouldn’t be surprised if they felt the take over signalled the end times, a nullification of their agreement with Placer (and hence and opportunity to renegotiate an even sweeter deal with the PJV), or simply an opportunity to shake things up. It could be that the workers genuinely believe they are all going to be fired because their contracts are not with Barrick, but with Placer. Ianal, but this seems extremely unlikely to me. Not only are their contracts (according to the mine manager) with the PJV and not Placer, but this is simply not how corporate take overs work.

Anyway it is unfortunate that the National and the Post only quotes the PJV side of the story and gave the mine manager room to speak. It would have been interesting to see what the miners themselves thought. Ben Imbun has studied miners in Porgera, and has found that labor relations, although couched in terms of class, are actually about ethnic Engan solidarity in the ethnically Ipili Porgera valley. This is true in my experience as well — Engans aren’t landowners, so their slice of the pie (other than marrying Ipili) is to connect themselves with the valley by entangling themselves with the mine via employment. I wonder how this strike plays amongst Ipili within the Special Mining Lease?

Finally, I was surprised to see that Phil Stephenson is now mine manager. Last I heard Brad Gordon was the mine manager, and Phil has been put in charge of some place out in Australia. I remember Phil from my fieldwork, when he was just senior staff. At the time I had the impression that thoughts were being given for his future, and I wasn’t surprised. He struck me as an inquisitive, thoughtful, and genuinely sweet person of obvious intelligence.

My god, I thought it would never happen, but it looks like “the Ramu Nickel-Cobalt mine is on”:http://www.resourceinvestor.com/pebble.asp?relid=13911, or at least closer to being on. It will be interesting to see what happens to it. It’s particularly significant that Chinese investment is happening there. A portent of things to come, I’d say…

Congratulations to the Independent State of Papua New Guinea on its thirtieth brithday! While it is has been too long since I have been back I think with fondness on the country that was my home for two years, and we will be raising a glass in celebration soon enough. The country faces serious challenges, but not to worry — its “Jesus Year”:http://www.doubletongued.org/index.php/dictionary/jesus_year/ is coming up!

It is one of the ironies of academic publication in the age of the internet that tracking down full citations for one’s bibliography inevitable turns up 12 bintillion more things you should have read before you wrote the damn thing in the first place. Most recently this includes a very nice looking volume entitled “Tunnel Vision”:http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&ct=res&cd=2&url=http%3A//www.oxfam.org.au/campaigns/mining/women/tunnelvisionreport.pdf&ei=d7EKQ83eA5Lsadzy_ZwO (get it? ‘Tunnel’ vision?! Hardy har har) put out by Oxfam that has brief articles by many of The Usual Suspects. Yeah well-written free-as-in-speech stuff on the internet!

The article is tentatively (and arbitrarily) entitled “Ironies of the Anticommons: Landowners, Land Registration, and Papua New Guinea’s Mining and Petroleum Industry”. I think it is a pretty ‘major’ statement of what I’ve been up to intellectually and I’m happy with it overall, although I’m keenly aware that the more ‘major’ something is the greater your chances of failing or generalizing in a way that makes you look like a big dummy. At any rate given the way things go in academia, it should appear in 2046. I’ll keep you posted.

“Trace Elements”:http://tracelements.blogspot.com/ is blogging the Guns Control Summit being held in PNG. For the first time in my ENTIRE LIFE someone is actually blogging a conference I actually want to read about! I hope he’ll keep it up. The information is valuable — he links to a report on “guns in the Southern Highlands”:http://www.smallarmssurvey.org/Special%20Reports/SR%20PNG.pdf (138 page 827K PDF). It often seems to me that a lot of the reporting on this is so simplistic as to be useless. I remember a report on the small arms trade in Melanesia based on very little research, for instance, and some people still seem to believe that guns are coming across the border from Irian instead — as it transparently obvious to anyone who has lived in areas where they’re used — from ‘capacity building’ stockpiles in Port Moresby funded by foreign donors. Still, any information is good information on this topic and I look forward to reading more.

Google News recently showed me the new Pope’s official “address to the Bishops of Papua New Guinea and the Solomon Islands”:http://www.zenit.org/english/visualizza.phtml?sid=73242. It turns out that “Jesus Christ continues to draw the peoples of their two island nations to a still deeper faith and life in him.”

“Bomana Nights”:http://bomana.blogspot.com/ has some “excellent pictures”:http://bomana.blogspot.com/2005/06/line-up.html (this post and the ones one either side of it) of the line up for one of PNG’s beauty pageant/fund raisers — I believe this is one of the run-ups to Miss PNG. When I was in PNG I actually _knew_ the woman who won one year. The way this genre of contest has been customized in PNG is just so typical of the country, and the pictures are so evocative of a sort of middle-class semi-urban existence (if Bombex counts as semi-urban!) life style that you so rarely read about in ethnographies of PNG, but which I and so many other people remember so fondly.

The latest PNG-related newsclipping is upon us (thanks “George”:http://www.allaboutgeorge.com/). In the world network of aviation, “Wasu in PNG is on one end”:http://news.yahoo.com/news?tmpl=story&u=/ap/20050523/ap_on_re_us/airline_connections_1. On the other hand, Jacksons in Port Moresby is the seventh most hub-like airport in the world, beating out Frankfurt and Tokyo. Airports in PNG are wonderful and sometimes very strange places. I’ve flown from Port Moresby to Honiara, admired the bintillions of small national airlines in Singapore that shared space with Air Niugini (Air Seychelles, anyone?), and gone in and out of Wewak, Goroka, Hagen, Alotau, Misima, and Kairik. There are literally ten books written about aviation in Papua New Guinea and for good reason. Whether it’s the little cups of orange juice and the all-strings arrangement of Here Comes The Sun that they play at the beginning of all international flights, or the fifteen Huli guys on the flight to Lae who drink complimentary coke continuously until the plane lands, something interesting always seems to happen at PNG airports. I miss it.

Every years or so I trawl the blogosphere for PNG-related websites. Unfortunately, they tend to be either ephemeral or not that helpful or forums and (for some reason) me hates to use forums. However, my blog recently got pinged by the mind behind “PNG life”:http://pnglife.blogspot.com/ and hence blogrolled over to “Sepik Mom”:http://www.sepikmom.com/ and “Bomana Nights”:http://bomana.blogspot.com/. Blogspot changes the world in yet another small and slightly unexpected way.

Err…. I know that sounds like a bad pr0n site, but in fact there are two very cool OpenDirs of pictures from PNG that some random person (too long to explain who) has left open to the public. One is apparently from a trip he and his girlfriend made to “the Tolukuma Gold Mine”:http://dj.dynamo.online.fr/tolukuma/ while the other, shorter series, features spelunking around “Alotau”:http://dj.dynamo.online.fr/alotau/. There’s even a picture of them with Peter Ipatas! It looks like they took a side-trip to Ok Tedi and then stopped either at the Hides gas plant or at Ambua Lodge.

!http://alex.golub.name/pics/vacation.jpg!

These pictures are basically what fieldwork was like for me and it’s fascinating to see someone else’s photos of them. The gold pour they witnessed is, like all pictures of gold pours, not as interesting as being there. Additionally, they commit the sin of trying to take pictures during a helicopter trip. Please note: pictures from helicopters are never anywhere as NEAR fantastic as just going on a helicopter trip and convey nothing of the awesomeness of PNG’s terrain to the uninitiated. It just looks fuzzy. If you ever find yourself in a Longranger crossing a barrier range, don’t take a picture. Just soak it all in — it’ll last longer. Trust me.

Just in case anyone was confused about what I meant about the amount of coordination required to produced realtime mining in PNG when your equipment was so fearsome, here’s a nice picture of a 789:

!http://alex.golub.name/pics/789.jpg!

The bolts used to hold the thing together could kill if they fell on you, much less the whole truck. Safety is job 1 in the mining industry. Or so they kept telling me.

I am going through the final, painful thicket of ideas that is the ‘theoretical’ section of my dissertation. “This is what my brain feels like”:http://www.geocities.com/heartland/ranch/1201/oandkrh400.html?200528. These two paragraphs just took me literally an hour to write/revise:

“But mining, like cannibalism, “is always symbolic, even when it is ‘real’” (Sahlins 1983:). It is important to realize that both the semiotic and technical aspects of mining are flip sides of the same coin. As the “pragmatic-poetic turn” of contemporary linguistic anthropology (the term is from Silverstein 2004:623; other prominent statements regarding this turn might be found in Silverstein and Urban 1996 and Baumann and Briggs 1990) has demonstrated, all human interaction requires the deployment of a shared set of sociocultural concepts in order to ensure that interaction coheres to create “a coherent, intersubjectively accomplished interactional text, the interpersonal achievement of a ‘doing’ of something – an instance of some generically understood social act – to which more than one individual has contributed” (Silverstein 1998:270) This is true even of perilinguistic interactions such as those that occur in Porgera’s open pit, where the operators of, say a Catepillar 769 haul truck and an O&K RH8 excavator, must work together to dislodge material from the open pit and transfer it from the bucket of the excavator to the back of the 769 without either of the operators being killed — a remarkably easy thing to do in a line of work where the tires of your vehicle are taller than you are. While the complex figuration of text in context in the course of the linguistically mediated interaction of Mr. A and Mr. B described by Silverstein (2004:623-625) may be poetically more complex than the ‘doing-something’ of shoveling ore into the back of a truck, it is none the less true that even miners must invoke sociocultural conceptions, inhabit roles, and share a set ’standard operating procedures’ that will regiment action if the most elemental aspect of mining is to occur without mishap. This “mutual tuning-in relationship,” as Schutz (1964:161) called it, is always metapragmatically regimented, regardless of the antintellectualism inherent in the ethnometapragmatics of any single miner who is engaged in the improvisational performance of ‘mining’ in realtime discursive practice.

The question of how to keep the mine open, then, is shot through with two dimensions which are interrelated, rather than opposed. Looked at from the point of view of engineering – moving the physical materials which are insensible to the semiotics of our lives – the logistics involved in keeping the mine open requires ‘practical’ and ‘real’ action: you can not talk the gold out of a mine and modulo the inevitably culturally shaped means and ends that determine what and how ought to be mined, the physical nature of the resource creates technical imperatives which must be met. But every human being who is part of the complex chain of logistics that runs from machine operators in the open pit to people signing checks in Vancouver deploys some sort of narrative about who they are and what they are doing which permits the technically complex coordination of action of thousands of individuals that results in the creation of bars of pure gold. Keeping the mine open is thus shot through with both engineering and signification.”

My paper for Fashioning Anthropology: Papers in Honor of Gail Kelly is now available for download on this website under the ‘writings’ section of the sidebar. It’s entitled “Shooting Snowy Was The Toughest Job I Ever Had: The Role of Dogs in First Contact and Anthropological Theory”:http://alex.golub.name/res/shootingsnowy.pdf. It’s a bit of a romp and (as my scarily erudite beloved once put it) ‘compulsively irreverent.’ Its full of lines like:

One did not write ‘about’ something, one wrote _against_ it. I found I could only get the Comaroffs to read my papers about dogs if I cast them as critiques of pigs. The Papuan pig, I argued, had been the subject of a great deal of anthropological literature while the dog had been unfairly slighted by the suidocentric biases of Western academics immersed in the hegemonic pro-pig tropology of Papua New Guinea’s imperialistic episteme…

Enjoy!

A few of the things the intarweb taught me today:

“Pluto Press”:http://www.plutobooks.com/ has a lousy website but a good catalog, including a “new book on Agnes Heller”:https://secure.metronet.co.uk/pluto/cgi-bin/web_store/web_store.cgi?sc_query_isbn=0745321933 (“CV”:http://www.newschool.edu/gf/phil/faculty/heller/cv.htm) who has got to be the Most Remaindered Continental Philosopher I Never Got Around To Reading.

Speaking of reading, “foucault.info”:http://foucault.info/ is a beautifully sparse site with a great many resources, including some “primary texts of Foucault’s”:http://foucault.info/documents/ that would definitely be actionable if, you know, we figured out “what is an author.”

Agnes Heller, of course, emigrated to Australia. Australia. “Gough Whitlam”:http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gough_Whitlam. “Whitlam Institute”:http://www.whitlam.org/. Many many things about “PNG and decolonization”:http://www.whitlam.org/cgi-bin/search/search.pl?collection=general&searchstring=papua+new+guinea&x=0&y=0.

Papua New Guinea. Decolonization. Modernization. Obscure British presses. “Ashgate Press has a series on Anthropology and Cultural History is Asia and the Indo-Pacific”:https://www.ashgate.com/shopping/search_results.asp?key1=&key2=&seriesid=1241&seriesdesc=Anthropology+and+Cultural+History+in+Asia+and+the+Indo%2DPacific&location=series including a “new edited volume by Joel Robbins and Holly Wardlow”:https://www.ashgate.com/shopping/title.asp?key1=&key2=&orig=results&isbn=0%207546%204312%203. Why am I always the last to hear about these things?

PNG. Online texts. “Psychology in the South Pacific Global, Local and Glocal Applications”:http://spjp.massey.ac.nz/books/bolitho/contents.shtml: an online book.

Online texts. Pacific. “Rory Ewin’s Writings on the Pacific”:http://www.speedysnail.com/pacific/. Online texts… online texts…

PNG Online texts. Too many… online… texts… must find… bibliography to warn… the others… before it’s too late…

“Report on Historical Sources on Australia and Japan at war in Papua and New Guinea, 1942-45″:http://rspas.anu.edu.au/papers/sources.html by Hank Nelson.

“Social Impact Assessment: an annotated bibliography”:http://www.es.mq.edu.au/~rhowitt/SIABIB.htm

Mandatory syllabus link: “Folklore and the Body”:http://www.oberlin.edu/english/syllabi/spring01/369pgs01.html (“TOC of the class reader”:http://www.oberlin.edu/english/syllabi/spring01/Gorfain/369/369ReaderToC.html). Spiffy. Two sessions on ‘freakery’ PLUS articles by James Weiner.

The amount of Free/Open Source Scholarship on the internet continues to skyrocket. On February 23 the University of California unveiled it’s “eScholarship”:http://repositories.cdlib.org/escholarship/ service as part of the “California Digital Library”:http://www.cdlib.org/ that I blogged about “earlier”:http://alex.golub.name/log/?p=305 — it’s sort of like “the Australian Nationa University’s ePrints service”:http://eprints.anu.edu.au/ except with less meat pies and Blundstone boots. So far there are just over 6,000 papers available for download. This is exciting news for those of us who thought ‘i-’ was on the verge of stealing the “Sexy Technology Prefix” title away from ‘e-’, which has held it since it usurped ‘cyber-’ in 1998.

My ASAO homies have also pointed out “Eldis”:http://www.eldis.org/, a sort of gateway for information about developing countries hosted at the University of Sussex. They feature free dowloadable reports from various NGOs and UN type agencies — there are “over thirty about Papua New Guinea”:http://www.eldis.org/dbtw-wpd/exec/dbtwpcgi.exe?QB0=AND&QF0=DE@DOCNO&QI0=Papua+New+Guinea*&MR=20&TN=a1&DF=f1&RF=s1&DL=0&RL=0&NP=3&MF=countmsg.ini&AC=QBE_QUERY&XC=/dbtw-wpd/exec/dbtwpcgi.exe&BU=http%3A//www.eldis.org/search.htm available for download. The “British Library for Development Studies”:http://blds.ids.ac.uk/blds/ a roughly similar institution, also has “articles on Papua New Guinea”:http://blds.ids.ac.uk/cgi-bin/dbtcgi.exe?$BOOL+0=AND&TI%7CDE=Papua+New+Guinea*&$BOOL+1=AND&YR=%3E2000&$BOOL+2=OR&CPROF=Papua+New+Guinea*&$TEXTBASE_PATH=d:\Inetpub\wwwroot\data\&$TEXTBASE_NAME=blds&$MAXRECS=12&$NOREPORT=0&$NODISPLAY=0&$REPORT_FORM=country as well as a nifty “country profile”:http://www.eldis.org/dbtw-wpd/exec/dbtwpcgi.exe?QB0=AND&QF0=GEOG&QI0=Papua+New+Guinea&MR=20&TN=country&DF=countrynew&RF=countrynew&DL=0&RL=0&NP=3&MF=countmsg.ini&AC=QBE_QUERY&XC=/dbtw-wpd/exec/dbtwpcgi.exe&BU=http%3A//www.eldis.org/search.htm with links to overviews from the IMF and so forth.

If you are looking for some non-free treeware to read, you might want to check out two of the lesser-known but still interesting literary awards that are out there: “The Gustavus Myers Center for the Study of Bigotry and Human Rights”:http://www.myerscenter.org/ (hint: they are anti-bigotry) has released it’s “2004 Book Award Winners”:http://www.myerscenter.org/pages/04winners.htm. In addition, the “Charles Taylor Prize for Literary Nonfiction”:http://www.myerscenter.org/pages/04winners.htm (no, not that Charles Taylor) recently gave its 2005 award to “The Last Heathen: Encounters with Ghosts and Ancestors in Melanesia”:http://www.thecharlestaylorprize.ca/2005/winner2005.htm. I’ve heard complaints about the book from — of all people — the Anglican Bishop of Malaita, but that just sort of makes me more interested. Finally, a whole gaggle of Authentically Respectable Pacific Scholars have put together a nice issue of Common Places Magazine entitled “Pacific Crossings”:http://www.common-place.org/ that is well worth a look.

The most recent edition of my Alma Mater’s “Alumni Magazine”:http://web.reed.edu/reed_magazine/feb2005/index.html features two stories of note. One, from “George Weiblen”:http://geo.cbs.umn.edu/ involves “looking for new species of fig-eating wasps in Madang, PNG”:http://web.reed.edu/reed_magazine/feb2005/features/science_in_village/index.html. The other is by my coconspirator in the Reed Domination of Anthropology Campaign 2006 “Katherine Verdery”:http://www.lsa.umich.edu/anthro/faculty_staff/verdery.html, who writes on “land ownership in post-Socialist Eastern Europe”:http://web.reed.edu/reed_magazine/feb2005/features/bitter_harvest/index.html.

“History was made on Saturday, May 17 when Alan Wright, Grand Master, installed Bro. Edward Cleland Matane into the chair as Master of Port Moresby Masonic Lodge No. 445, UGLQ”:http://www.pngbd.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8005&page=1&pp=10

There is more information out there, but for some reason these pictures just seem so _true_ to me.

To the extent that he is remembered at all, Lewis Feuer is remembered as an echt-Jewish leftie who (like “Karl Wittfogel”:http://www.riseofthewest.net/thinkers/wittfogel01.htm ) turned into a full-on HUAC style anti-communist in the 1950s. I gather that he is mostly remembered today for some early critiques of the Frankfurt school and his own work on J.S. Mill and the Philosophy of Science he isn’t much remembered.

One part of his career that certainly isn’t remembered is the time he spent during World War II in “New Caledonia”:http://www.newcaledoniatourism-south.com/home.cfm?&CFID=812434&CFTOKEN=61653876 where he became embroiled in the colonial politics of Asian indentured laborers in New Caledonia’s mines. Having just spent a week with a New Caledonian researcher who hadn’t heard of this brief but tantalizing literature, I thought I’d make a note of it here — it is certainly easy to miss.

*Lewis Feuer in New Caledonia*
(all articles are by Lewis Feuer)

1946. “Cartel Control in New Caledonia”. Far Eastern Survey XV (June 19), 184-187.

1946. “End of Coolie Labor in New Caledonia”. Far Eastern Survey XV (August 24), 264-267.

1982. “South Pacific Memoir”. The New Leader LXVIII (1) (January 9), 22.

1988. “Autobiographical Essay”. In Philosophy, history, and social action : essays in honor of Lewis Feuer. Edited by Sidney Hook, William L. O’Neill, and Roger O’Toole. Boston : Kluwer Academic Publishers, p. 20-26.

If for some reason there are more Lewis Feuerites out there who have other references to his New Caledonia do drop me a line in the comments.

*Update:*

Kathy Creely points out:

Ismet Kurtovitch 2000. A Communist Party in New Caledonia (1941–1948). Journal of Pacific History 35(2)

Abstract:

During and immediately after the Second World War, in common with all French colonies, New Caledonia experienced intense political upheaval. It is little known that both the political awakening of the native people and the successful questioning of colonial authority by immigrant Asian workers had their origins in a political movement with communist sympathies.. Led by strong and colour personalities – Jeanne Tunica y Casas, Florindo Paladini, Vincent Bouquet, Henri Naisseline, Henri Lemonnier – the Caledonian Communist Party, which had regular contacts with its Australian and French counterparts, knew how to present the first Kanak political claims and to set up an embryonic political organisation by and for Kanaks. The present article recounts this forgotten page of New Caledonian history: forgotton because the Christian missions, allied with the colonial administration, were quick to nip in the bud what appeared to be too radical a questioning of the established order.

It’s happened once again — another ‘first contact’ story from New Guinea. This time it’s an “article by Michael Behar”:http://outside.away.com/outside/destinations/200502/fist-contact_1.html in Outsider Magazine that’s recently been “featured on NPR”:http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=4493348 . Sometimes anthropology’s knee-jerk, politically correct reactions drive me nuts, but in this case the article is so over the top that it’s difficult to take it — or Kelly Woolford, the tour operator it portrays — seriously at all. Lines about ’stone age cannibals’ litter the pages.

This is particularly bothersome to me, since first contact in New Guinea is one of my academic specialities. I first got interested in the topic in 1995, when I wrote a “BA thesis”:http://library-catalog.reed.edu/search/aGolub&/agolub/1%2C33%2C46%2CB/frameset&FF=agolub+alex&1%2C1%2C comparing first-contact patrols in Papua New Guinea that occurred between 1926 and 1939. There is by now a burgeoning literature on the subject. Some of the books, such as “Like People You See In A Dream”:http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/0804718997/qid=1108059528/sr=1-1/ref=sr_1_1/002-7758230-2549624?v=glance&s=books and “The Sky Travellers”:http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/0522848273/qid=1108059664/sr=1-2/ref=sr_1_2/002-7758230-2549624?v=glance&s=books are among the best books ever written about New Guinea. Others, like “First Contact”:http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/0670801674/qid=1108059741/sr=1-4/ref=sr_1_4/002-7758230-2549624?v=glance&s=books are great yarns. Still others, like “The Lost Tribe”:http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/0805053182/qid=1108059788/sr=1-1/ref=sr_1_1/002-7758230-2549624?v=glance&s=books are wretched accounts of ignorant and unethical white guys dressing up their own bunglings as ‘adventure’. My own research on first contact in Porgera occupies a major part of my first book, “Gold Positive.”:http://uhmanoa.lib.hawaii.edu/cgi-bin/Pwebrecon.cgi?v1=3&ti=1,3&SAB1=golub&BOOL1=all+of+these&FLD1=Keyword+Anywhere+%28GKEY%29+%28GKEY%29&GRP1=AND+with+next+set&SAB2=&BOOL2=all+of+these&FLD2=Keyword+Anywhere+%28GKEY%29+%28GKEY%29&GRP2=AND+with+next+set&SAB3=&BOOL3=all+of+these&FLD3=Keyword+Anywhere+%28GKEY%29+%28GKEY%29&PID=3966&CNT=25&SEQ=20050210082552&SID=1 I’ve even taught “a course”:http://library.kcc.hawaii.edu/external/psiweb/melanesia/First_Contact_Syllabus.htm on this topic at the University of Chicago (which is no small shakes). And this is not to mention the many classic travelogues that emerged from New Guinea that are still available to be read today: _Across New Guinea from the Fly to the Sepik_, _Papuan Wonderland_, _The Land That Time Forgot_, and so on.

In short, there is so much that we know and understand about first contanct in New Guinea — don’t even get me started on other parts of the world — that the appearence of this article and the universal condemnation of the tour operator described in it should be a relatively simple affair. But this is one dream that people are simply not willing to give up on, and so when what anthropologists say about this doesn’t match what they want to hear, they simply ignore it.

There’s so much wrong with this tour operator I really don’t know where to begin. But in case you were wondering: however cynical Behar is about this encounter, you should be even twice as cynical.

The latest update on prospects at Mr. Kare has just been released. In the past six months or so their IP testing has found zones of gold at over 150 grams/ton. If Kare ever opens I’m going to have to eat my hat. But with the gold price what it is and Kare shaping up the way its shaping up, it looks like social issues might turn out to be the only thing to keep the project from developing.

Here’s a researcher whose working on the state, violence, and the highlands in Papua New Guinea. Abby McLeod comes highly recommended — her thesis (you can read the abstract) looks very interesting indeed, as does the article she wrote with Phil Gibbs and Nicole Haley (both also extremely good eggs). My inability to get PDFs of Australian dissertations has driven me nuts for MONTHS now. I believe it is easier for me to get theses from France than it is Australia. This makes me cry on the inside. On the other hand, since I haven’t had the time to read Abby’s earlier paper with James “Jimmy” Weiner and Charles Yala despite the fact that I printed it up off of the ANU’s eprint repository (yeah eprint repository!!!) like TWO YEARS AGO I suppose that shifting the already frighteningly “printed material to empty space” ratio of my apartment with Yet Another Highlands Dissertation is perhaps not the best course of action anyway.

I’m hip-deep in fieldnotes at the moment and thought this one was a bit too good to pass up:

Bob’s [not his real name] eldest daughter, home from grade 12 in Wabag, is Cressida. I asked “Cressida, like Troilus and Cressida?” incredulously. He responded “yeah, like Toyota Cressida. I was marketing director for Ela Motors and I ordered the first lot of Cressidas in Papua New Guiena when she was being born.” He also said that he named his son Napolean because he was always grabbing things and “claiming possesion.” His daughter Scholar he named beause he met his wife at college and the child was born while he was studying. The two choices for names were ‘campus’ and ’scholar’, and he thought campus a bit akward.

This is not at all unusual. In the Solomon Islands I met a family that included such memorable figures as Florence Nightingale and Watermelon.

The California Digital Library has been underway for sometime now, but this is the first time I’ve seen their interface this easy to use. Their public (i.e. free as in beer) book list includes sixty one anthropology books in full text. There is a ton of good stuff there, including (but not limited to): Rob Brightman’s Grateful Prey , The Calligraphic State, Maring Hunters and Traders, History and Tradition in Melanesian Anthropology, The Heart of the Pearlshell, Circumstantial Deliveries (Rodney Needham at his Needhamy-ist), and Wage, Trade and Exchange in Melanesia. Some of these chapters would be great for teaching.

Well it’s that time of the month again — contemporary america’s obsession with the idea of selfless giving has once more led it to misappropriate anthropological theories of reciprocity and distort some well-known ethnographic facts. The culprit this time is The New Scientist, which recently produced a piece about how the Kula can help us use cellphones better. I know that the inaccuracies in the article only get under the skin of Melanesianists and Melanesians — people who, frankly, most of the New Scientist’s readers don’t care about — and I’m sure that Vodafone is doing all sorts of cool things with their cellphones. So I dwell on this example not in the spirit of meanheartedness, but because it provides a perfect example of American’s tendency to use Kula, Potlatch, or what will you to fuel their own imaginations about gifts and reciprocity.

Let’s get some geography out of the way: First, the Trobriands are in the Coral Sea (as in ‘The Battle of the Coral Sea’), not the Solomon Sea — although it’s a close call. Second, while exchange in this area is complex, Malinowski’s classic Kula Ring was an interisland exchange that occurred between the Trobriands (Trobes, as they’re known in Papua New Guinea today) and a bunch of other islands — Muyua, Dobu, Misima (if I recall correctly), and so forth. So in fact the Kula was a regional exchange system.

The New Scientist says: “One of kula’s key features is an apparent element of altruism that is missing from a simple, two-way exchange of gifts.” Not true. Kula was a competitive system in which men attempted to gain fame and reputation by trading shrewdly, not an ‘altruistic’ one. Kula magic, for instance, is designed to make one beautiful and charismatic so that your trading partner will loose control of their mind and go nuts in their desire to give you large, prestiguous shells. Furthermore, the tenor of Kula exchanges, as Malinowski described them, is hardly altruistic. “A native will always, when speaking about a transaction, insist on the magnitude and value of the gift he gave, and mnimize those of the equivalent accepted… there is the attempt to enhance the apparent value of the gift by showing what a wrench it is to give it away” (Argonauts, 353) and “if the article given as a counter-gift is not equivalent, the recipient will be disappointed and angry” (Argonauts, 96). Indeed, Malinowski goes out of his way to disabuse the reader that Kula is an example of the habitual generosity caused by ‘primitive communism’, a popular late-nineteenth century misunderstanding of ‘primitive’ people which New Scientist more or less replicates a century later.

This leads us to New Scientist’s claim that “because the chain of gift-giving passes from island to island in a circle, no community receives a present from the one it gives to.” But in fact Kula traders do receive payment for the valuables that they give to others. Exactly how this happens is complex (and Malinowski missed a key part of it — the way that shells known as kitoum work) but any gift always involves a countergift, even if that countergift is only a ‘place holder’ for a larger future payment to match the value and beauty of the shell in question. So it is not the case that the person who gives shell valuables does not receive a countergift from the recipient of the shell. Malinowski is clear on this: “The Kula consists in the bestowing of a ceremonial gift, which has to be repaid by an equivalent counter-gift after a lapse of time” (Argonauts, 95). Furhtermore (on Malinowski’s account) you receive this countergift from the person to whom you gave your original shells — it is just these transaction which form “a partnership between two men” which “is a permanent and lifelong affair” (Argonauts 83).

In fact I think that there are important similarities between the way people in Papua New Guinea live their lives and the way in which people who use technology to communicate make meaning with one another — in fact, I’ve written a brief article about it. In fact, I’m even teaching a course of Virtual Worlds in the fall, and there will be some Melanesian material right there alongside stuff by the Terra Nova folks. There’s a good reason for this — the anthropological literature on reciprocity and exchange is now huge, and Melanesia is the classic ethnographic area where people are at their exchangiest.

Too often, however, Americans become fixated on exchange and reciprocrity because of the way it fulfills their own nightmares and fantasies about their own lives. Thus Kula stands in for our dreams of altruism and selfless giving, while potlatch comes to serve as an illustration of the pathologies of an overly-commodified culture. Unless you’re into free software, in which case it becomes a dream of altruism and selfless giving. There’s nothing wrong with this in and of itself, of course, the College of Sociology came up with tons of nifty stuff based on their strange French imagination of potlatch. But for those of us who think that Melanesians deserve to be understood — rather than used as fodder for our imagination — the defect of this approach is that Melanesians become cardboard cutouts on whom we hang up our dreams. And social scientist interested in generating generalized theories about human action which are applicable cross-culturally are never going to get there if they don’t take ‘primitive’ people as seriously as they do cell phone users.

If you’re interested in learning more about the Trobes, by the way, the best place to start is Anette Weiner’s The Trobrian Islanders of Papua New Guinea. It’s more accessible, shorter, and more up-to-date than Malinowksi’s classic study. Some time ago I also put together an Amazon listmania list on the complete Kula that will satisfy those of you who want to delve more deeply into the subject.

Well it’s finally happened, The Australian Strategic Policy Institute (dedicated to bringing US-Style Liberal Peace to the Southwest Pacific) has released its report on Papua New Guinea. This report, like Bill Reilly’s work on The ‘Africanisation’ of the South Pacific is part of Australia’s long-term concern with Papua New Guinea’s admittedly weak state. However this particular post-9/11, War On Terror reincarnation seems to me to be particularly pernicious. Papua New Guineans everywhere dislike being criticized by outsiders, particularly about the government’s failures — and particularly when the outsiders are the former colonial power. Nonetheless, amongst themselves, laments about corrupt government and the failure of the state to provide basic services are common. There’s no doubt that Papua New Guinea needs help, but if it is to be effective then it needs to be given for the right reasons, and with an accurate understanding of what PNG’s problems are. I’m not sure this latest, increasingly popular school of thought provides reasons or understanding that are appropriate. More later, perhaps, if I have some time.

File this one under “clueless things said about Melanesia I have to mention in public even though I’m beating a dead horse over and over again.” Mack Daddy I points to an Ananova article about winning a vacation with the ‘cannibalistic Korowai people of Papua New Guinea’.

sigh

I sort of imagine this as Roman Holiday, except instead of Vespas you get Sago Grub Feasts and instead of Gregory Peck’s penzione you’re stuck in a treehouse.

But for the record: the Korowai live in Papua, a province of Indonesia. Not Papua New Guinea. Second, cannibalism is not nearly as popular as it once was. My understanding is that it is pretty much over as of the late 1990s (Korowai killed witches and then consumed them – no more witch homicides, no more cannibalism). Just ask Rupert Stasch, currently the anthropologist most knowledgeable about the Korowai. Or, if you like, you can learn Korowai and then go ask them yourself.

Two great men in the world of Pacific Affairs passed away today. Ratu Sir Kamisese Mara, the founder of modern Fiji, and Anthony Siaguru, one of the ‘gang of four’ (the others being, if I remember correctly, Morauta, Namaliu, and Lepani) bright young lads who took the lead in important civil service and political posts in Papua New Guinea’s independence period.

(tonight i started writing a paper called ‘what I did on the millennium in Papua New Guinea’. I’m going to give it at the interdisciplinary christianities workshop in like, May, but it is an easier way to begin writing the bits on Ipili historical consciousness that will appear in the diss than trying to write them into the diss is, for some reason. Anyway, here is a core dump from an evening of writing. Very rough.)

It’s the unfortunate fate of anthropologists who study Papua New Guinea to seem particularly interesting to the people sitting next to them on airplanes. The five most common topics of conversation are, in no particular order: Cannibalism (particularly ‘brain eating’ and mad cow disease), Margaret Mead, David Rockefeller (which often segues into ‘cannibalism and brain eating’),World War II, ‘I have a friend who was a missionary in New Guinea’, and Cargo Cults. Of all of these, ‘cargo cults’ is the one that sets Melanesianists most ill at ease. We have issues about cargo cults. My paper is about these issues.

During a certain period cargo cults and millenarian movements were a cottage industry in Melanesian anthropology. Now, however, the bloom is off the rose and a wide range of authors have argued convincingly that the idea of a ‘cargo cult’ is bad politics and even worse analysis. Cargo-cults, it is argued, are ‘our’ obsession and not ‘theirs’ (Lindstrom). The reification of the phenomenon takes for granted a colonial narration of institutionality which we’d do better to make an object of analysis rather than accept at face value (Kaplan), and at heart, making the distinction between ‘cargo cults’ and more prevalent Melanesian concerns with wealth, ancestors, and cosmology is probably not possible (Rodman(?) and that Mr. Arapesh guy).

The dilemma that the anthropologist confronts when faced with an earnest accountant and a four hour plane flight is how to explain in a nutshell ‘why anthropologists don’t believe in cargo cults anymore’. The heart of the dilemma is this – the anthropologists seeks to simultaneously de-exoticize Melanesians for the accountant while still maintaining and respecting their cultural difference. How can one both recognize and validate cultural difference (“they thinkcargo is going to come”) while disagreeing with the propositions a particular culture puts forht (“I don’t think it is”). To put it more broadly – how can one deal with and respect cultural difference in a situation where one is forced to take a stand vis-à-vis the ontological claims of one’s informants? I’ll call this the airplane dilemma. In the case of the airplane and the accountant, the inability to both disagree and still respect is pretty low stakes – most of the time the result is that the message that the accountant takes away from the conversation is that anthropologists are weird and anthropology isn’t ‘a real science’. But sometimes the stakes are higher – and this paper is about what happens when the stakes become very high indeed.

I bring up the airplane dilemma in this forum because the aftermath of the critique of cargo cults is a rapidly growing and richly detailed body of literature on Christianity in Papua New Guinea. Christianity is ubiquitous in Papua New Guinea – particularly in it’s millenarian version. And – pace the more calendrically- and theologically-sophisticated western academic – ‘millennarianism’ in Papua New Guinea means the end of the world and the return of Jesus Christ on 1 January 2000. This ubiquitous millennial belief and rapid approach of the millennium itself resulted in the publication of books with titles like Millennial Markers (Strathern and Stewart) and Expecting the Day of Wrath (Kocher-Schmidt). At the same time, it undid some of the epistemological certainties of critique of cargo cults – widespread and active millenarianism presented the airplane dilemma anew in a particularly acute form. For not only where Papua New Guineans on a different ontological page of music than the western academics who studied them, but they invoked this difference in the name of a religion to which many of those academics had more than a passing attachment. It is one thing to respect a culture that is different from yours, but diagnoses of ignorance and primitivism are harder to avoid when what seems to be going on is a simple misappropriation of a bit of ‘your’ culture.

But while the millennium was an object of considerable theoretical interest to many anthropologists, not many of them were actually there when the clock ticked over. If they were – as I was – they would have found themselves facing an even more heightened version of the airplane dilemma, since the reality of cultural difference and the importance of coping with it became an eminently practical question.

The world officially began ending in Porgera – my fieldsite in the highlands province of Enga – on December 27th. While millennial expectation has been rife for many months before, the events of December 27th triggered a mass migration from the valley on a scale that made the previous runs on kerosene and tinned goods seem puny in comparison. The main thing that had set people off was enormous explosion and bright red mushroom cloud that appeared above the valley.

If dealing theoretically with millenarianism is problematic, and dealing with millennial expectation in practice is down-right troubling, dealing with a situation in which people believed the end times had in fact come puts one in a situation where the literature on relativism is about as useful as an umbrella in a hurricane. In this paper I provide some background on the remarkable set of historical conjunctures that made the coming of the end times so utterly plausible for Porgerans. I then turn to describe in detail events as they unfolded, and my response to them. In conclusion I make a few remarks about tolerance, relativism, and some dilemmas in fieldwork. I question how far relativism and tolerance can get us, what role they play in the epistemology and ethics of contemporary fieldwork in a globalized age, and take aim at a central question: why are anthropologists so obsessed with validating cultural difference to begin with? Why, in otherwords, do we experience the airplane dilemma at all?

Here are two abstracts for two papers I’ll be giving later on this year. I wonder whether the final papers will actually bear any relation to the abstracts? Well, I’m posting these for posterity to see what happens.

“In Melanesia, there is this cooperative sharing thing.”: Elite and grassroots imaginations of ‘traditional kinship’ in Papua New Guinea.

This paper examines notions of ‘traditional kinship’ in play in Papua New Guinea today. Specifically, I will triangulate the different imaginations ‘traditional kinship’ held by anthropologists, rural Papua New Guineans, and Papua New Guinean mining exectutives. Anthropological politics often assume an uncomplicated alliance with and advocacy of indigenous people in opposition to the state or global capital. Often it is assummed that writing accounts of ’savage slot’ societies that emphasize their agency, dynamism, and history is an act obviously aligned with this politics. In Papua New Guinea, however, rural Papua New Guineans gain power over the state and mining projects by claiming identities as ecologically noble savages. Moreover, cosmopolitan Papua New Guineans idealize ‘the village’ and ‘village life’ as a location free of the problems that currently plague Port Moresby. Thus anthropological commonsense about ‘what the world needs to know about the indigenes’ would be disempowering for grassroots Papua New Guineans, except for the fact that no one in power believes anthropologists in the first place. Through an ethnography of the Papua New Guinean elite, I examine the unfamiliar position anthropologists involved in land registration and mineral policy in Papua New Guinea find themselves and the ethical and epistemological dillemas it entails.

Being ‘the Ipili’ in Porgera: White imaginations of traditional culture and Porgeran attempts to enact them

This paper examines the ways Porgerans claim to be authenticate members of the Ipili ethnic group that is the ‘traditional landowner’ of the Special Mining Lease (SML) of the Porgera gold mine. At the time of Porgeran first contact in 1939, ‘Ipili’ was not recognized as ethnonym by valley residents. Today, the Ipili landowners are officially divided into seven clans composed of twenty three subclans and lists of names, refreshed by periodic censuses, are officially maintained to combat the ever present threat of ‘false landowners’ impersonating ‘real’ SML landowners.

In previous work I have traced out the historical events that created the current rules within which the ‘identity game’ is played in Porgera today. In this paper I describe the way expatriate miners’ imagination of what ‘true landowners’ are like and how ‘the Ipili’ live have rebounded to alter existing Ipili practice itself. Moving beyond an approach which can see only cynical manipulation in Porgeran attempts to appear ‘authentic’ in order to capture mine-derived benefit streams, I argue that being ‘the Ipili’ in Porgera today involves a complex negotiation of identity which affects the players not just in instrumental deployments of a rhetoric of identity, but highly reflexive methods of self-making.

I just received news from Papua New Guinea that Tongope died at Paiyam Hospital on 27 August 2003. A key figure in the history of gold mining in Porgera, and a man who witnessed a unique period of history, Tongope was one of the most remarkable people I’ve ever met. His loss is an incredible blow to both Porgera and the world.

Tongope grew up in the Wake valley of Enga Province, Papua New Guinea. An ethnic Huli, he was part of the wave of Huli expansion that entered the Wake from the Huli homeland, draining the swamps of that high valley and planting sweet potato. During the 1930s, the Huli were a populous group of perhaps 40,000 people or so who had never been contacted by the ‘outside world’. They had no experience of metal or textiles, much less radios, aircraft, or firearms. Their initial contact occurred in the course of two exploratory patrols – one by the Fox Brothers, the other by Jack Hides. Nevertheless, white men – honebi, as the Huli called them – were nothing more than vague myths to the young Tongope, if he had heard about them at all.

By the time of the second world war, the little-explored central highlands became a strategic concern to Australian military planners who feared the Japanese on the north coast of New Guinea could use the valleys of the highlands for a possible advance towards Port Moresby, and thence to Australia. At the very least, they were concerned for downed airmen who might find themselves unprotected and alone in what were then barely-known areas. As a result Dan Leahy, an Australian gold miner turned volunteer soldier, was assigned to lead a patrol into Huli territory and recruit young men and boys who could be trained as translators.

Tongope was one of the people Dan recruited. A child without chest hair or a beard, he bravely volunteered to leave his home to see what the world had to offer. As he marched out of the valley with Dan’s patrol, his parents mourned him for dead, since they believed white men to be spirits or monsters, and thought he had been taken away forever.

Tongope spent the remainder of the war working at the government outpost of Mt. Hagen. Today the location of an international airport, Mt. Hagen was at that time the effective western limit of Australian expansion into the highlands. Tongope marveled at electric lights, wondered at the ease of chopping down a tree with a steel axe instead of a stone one, and was awestruck at the munitions dropped by the Japanese as they bombed the aerodrome at Mt. Hagen.

After the war, whites became interested in the gold discovered in Porgera during Taylor and Black’s patrol into the area in 1938-39. Tongope accompanied patrols into the area as a translator, eventually settling at Mungalep amongst the Angalaini people who lived there. Over the next five decades he became a powerful middle-man, using his influence amongst the Ipili and Australians to become one of the most important people in the history of the valley.

Many Porgerans remembered Tongope as the first person they knew ever to wear clothes. Many men in their forties remembered to me how terrified they were of Tongope as children. Late at night he would go into his tent – a tent! – and light his lantern and they would watch in horror as his sillhouette opened a can of tuna and ate it with rice. At a time when most Porgerans had never seen a fish, let alone rice, Tongope’s mastery of powerful foreign influences and advanced technology made him a figure of terrifying power. Young children were afraid to look him in the eyes. His monopoly of the gold trade in the upper Porgera was nearly complete. His constant rival, Puluku Poke (who is still alive), controlled the alluvial workings on the Porgera at this time. Their constant battles for influence and power are the stuff of which legends were made.

While the official history of Porgera reports the history of the valley as a series of progressive triumphs by white Australians over inclement terrain and hostile natives, much of their early success relied on the indigenous translotrs and middlemen who guided their patrols and directed their work. In 1990, Porgera was the third largest gold mine in the world. Officially today, the credit for discovering the source of Porgera’s gold goes to the Australian geologist who led the patrol which originally located them. But people around at the time know that Tongope’s knowledge of the geography of the valley and it’s alluvial resources were unparalleled. It was he, and not the geographer, that pinpointed the mountain within which Porgera’s gold laid buried.

As a powerful man, Tongope forged numerous marriage alliances. He took wives from neighboring tribes to create alliances with them, engaging in a subtle matrimonial diplomacy that would leave him with many allies and few foes, although many people envied his success. When I lived in Porgera in 1999-2001, Tongope had eight wives, twenty six children, and an even larger number of grandchildren.

When Tongope began work, Porgerans were paid in salt, shells, and steel tools – all valuable items in the traditional culture. Throughout his tenure in Porgera, he was one of the first people to pay workers in cash, and to introduce them to the concept of money. As interest in the Porgera gold deposits grew, Tongope served as the unofficial mayor of the rapidly growing town that crystallized around the exploration camp. Without his ability to bridge the two worlds of modern industrial mining and local expectations, the Porgera mine could never have come to fruition.

But by the 1990s, time had passed Tongope by. Younger men who could speak English and who had been to university took over as the middle-men who negotiated with the mine on local people’s behalf. The world no longer needed a man who could remember the first time his people had seen metal or who impressed others by using lanterns and eating rice. In memory of his long service to the community, Tongope was given a job at the mine – as a janitor.

Disgusted at the pittance they had given him, Tongope retired to Mungalep, the part of Porgera he had made his home over the past fifty years. When I met him, he was an old man with an infinity of stories to tell and a history whose import had been forgotten by those around him. Although his name was known throughout the valley, few could associate the mythological ‘Tongope’ with the small, stooped man who I met.

I never got to know Tongope as well as I hoped. How could I? With a lifetime of stories behind him, I could only begin to grasp the complex politics that his tales traversed. And most noticeable of all, of course, was that Tongope never lost his keen sense of politics even in his old age. I wanted to know many things about him, but he was interested in telling me about just one: his role in the history of the valley, and the way it had been forgotten.

My first book, a popular history of the valley published in Papua New Guinea and available there, was my attempt to fulfill the promise that I made to him that his story would be told. I wanted him to know that his work and remarkable story would not be forgotten.

I can’t do justice here to how remarkable Tongope was or what he lived through. He was one of the few remaining members of a generation who could remember a time when their world was ruled by outsiders. As a child, he knew a world where the ‘outside world’ was in abeyance – he lived in one of the few corners of the world where European colonialism had not yet reached. Throughout his life, he bravely ventured into a world he did not understand with the confidence that he could soak up the novelty to which he was exposed. With his death the world looses not just the memory of a world before colonialism, but the nervy self-confidence of a people who refused to be cowed by the new. For Tongope’s greatness lay not only in his memory of a life of stone tools and ancient heritage, but in his bravery in thrusting himself headlong into the circumstances in which he found himself without doubting for an instance his ability to thrive in his new situation. Tongope’s greatest contribution lies not in preserving a prehistoric heritage, but in the example that he provided us of how best to deal with the new. I will miss him.