From Cairns to Port Moresby
by Alex
This is the way I go through life:
This morning I woke up in Cairns, where I landed last night in the first leg of my flight from Honolulu to Papua New Guinea. I woke up and got on the Internet to check my email. My wife was on IM and we were talking back and forth and she said “It will be nice for you to have a day in Cairns to spend before you head to Moresby” (from now on POM = Port Moresby, the capital of Papua New Guinea). I said to her: “No, I have a day stop in Cairns on my way back. I am leaving for the airport in an hour to fly to POM.” Then I got in the taxi, went to the airport, and went to the Air Niugini ticket counter, where they told me I was travelling the next day, and that I should have listened to my wife.
This is a lesson I have learned many times before as she has patiently and lovingly remembered — indeed, created — both of our schedules. But I guess that even in the relatively high-stakes realm of international travel, plainly and clearly written itineraries, and reminders THAT SAME DAY from my Wife who is thousands of miles away and has much better things to do than deal with someone as hopeless as me still did not help. At any rate the price of taking the cab to town and then back to the airport again was about the same as just changing the ticket, so I decided to go to Por Moresby early. So here I am.
On the plane, the Kindle started paying for itself and I read some science fiction: The Sparrow, by Mary Doria Russell and The Birthday of the World by Ursula K. Leguin (which I am still reading, the LeGuin). The Sparrow is a really famous novel, apparently, and deals with several of my favorite themes: imaginations of alien culture, first contact, small-group personal dynamics, religion. I admired how well-written the book was, but ultimately it didn’t appeal to me. I guess Russell is a lapsed Catholic who converted to Judaism and the book centers on a priest’s struggle to live with, to make a long story short, the experience of absolute evil. It is supposed to be a piece of holocaust literature with a Jesuit overlay, but I ultimately found the central dilemmas of the books — celibacy for religion’s sake versus secular, sexually fulfilling relationships, the possibility that God wants us to suffer and is evil, etc — way too Christian or, perhaps more narrowly, Catholic. The idea that God demands that you give up true love in the name of faith just sounds silly to me. Equally, the idea that God is responsible for the holocaust rather than say, oh I don’t know, the Nazis doesn’t really parse for me, and neither does the idea that this piece is some sort of apologia for the colonization of the New World because it reminds us that sixteenth century colonizers ought not be considered culpable for the crimes of colonization and missionization because they didn’t share our moral code so should not be held ur standards. Again: not working for me. As a portrayal of a man’s inner struggle with the uncertainties of the Catholic religious experience it was compelling, I suppose, but at the end of the day I just found the terms of that experience extremely, shall we say, unintuitive. Apart from people saying the shehekianu like seventeen times in the course of the book, it didn’t seem particularly Jewish to me — or at least it didn’t resonate with my flavor of Judaism.
The LeGuin, on the other hand, is absurdly well-designed. When I was in China with The Scarily Erudite Beloved we visited the oldest wooden building in the world still standing. It was a Buddhist temple from the Tang dynasty. It looked like most of the Buddhist temples I was dragged in the course of our Buddhist Temple Tour Of China’s Coal Producing Regions. However it had a sort of broad, thickened proportionality to it, and was well but simply made. There was a family or two who looked after it and the government gave them some buckets full of sand in case there was a fire. It was gorgeous, and it was a hundred centuries old. LeGuin’s book is like that. Just marvelous.
One of the stories is set on a world ruled by women with a small minority of men who are forced to do nothing all day but play sports and visit ‘fuckeries’ where guy-obsessed women pay them for sex. It’s a world where the women have all the power and the men have all the privileges. Men who want to, say, read or help raise the children they have conceived are viewed as abominations (I think you can see where she goes with this). This world presents us with an exaggerated version of the crisis faced on our own college campuses, where men struggle to be successful academically because intelligence and studying are seen as ‘feminine’. I am going to the story the next time I teach intro anthro and then teach the literature on male underachivement in college, just to let my male students know that they have the option of seeing a world of compulsory athletics and casual sex as a place to flee from, rather than to.